Thursday, July 24, 2008

We don finish!!!

Ah say!!! We don finish water project for Mbo Barombi village. Wednesday all the top officials for this division and Kumba were in the village for the Inauguration ceremony. It was a great day complete with traditional dances and gala night after wards...plenty of white stuff. ..I gave my speech in pidgin and it went vewry well...I will post it on here when I get the chance, but now I am back in Kumba for the weekend. It was a very sad thing to leave the village today and I cannot even begin to explain how much we have come together with some of the people in that village...the Area Boys in particular are like brothers to me and today was a very sad day...anyhow we have but 3 more days in Cameroon to be spent in Kumba then we leave the Motherland...sad but true...

Water continues to flow from the taps and the people are very happy. I dashed (gave) out all of the boots and clothes I collected and managed to carry to Cameroon and even the set of jerseys from Central Highschool. I took one picture with the guys so I am sure they will be happy to have it when I return home. THey gave me two sets of jersrys so the other one will go to my association here, Clicks. They have made large steps forward in the area of service by cleaning up the hostipal in Kumba twice and also working to again visit the same orphanage (a relatively new concept here in Kumba because of the community-nature of the people to take care of eachothers children)/ Im pretty happy with that..

We made one arrange ment to meet up with the Area Boys at the lakeside Monday morning...they are bringing whitestuff to send us off and we are bringing more cement for the filters so they can continue to make them after we go...Try to enjoy KUmba tonight but I am very tired after the Gala night last night and early morning to move out of the schoolhouse today...I swear it was lik moving out of college after freshman year.

We met with the Water Management Committee today to essentially hand everything over to them and it went very well. They set a date and time for meetings and seem to be very serious at this time...Good to know...Anyhow Im outta here check uyall in the states in a few days...

Saturday, July 19, 2008

No be small thing

As I come to write this Blog, I am thinking only in pidgin...its still difficult to converse totally in pidgin, but I throw things in there whenever I can and most people seem to enjoy my attempt at this second language. I am writing with great joy because the people are currently drinking water from the taps now in Barombi!!!! You could say we have achieved our goal. It was not easy though (expressed in pidgin in the title of this entry) and many difficulties continually came to pass. We still have work to finish (some small things) on Monday before the final Inauguration Celebration on Wednesday.

The week recap: Monday Mark and I left Kumba at 6am to make it to the village in good time to begin work. We did a lot of concrete pouring Monday and Tuesday and the community finished covering the trench by Wednesday. To pour concrete is no easy task. First you must transport sand and gravel to the site. We managed this by again carrying bags of the materials on head through the bush path for the structures inside the jungle. So the task of pouring 5 valve boxes and covers took 2 days. The plumbers finished the line by adding pipes we needed to purchase in town last weekend (result of sacrafice to lake) and attached the spicket heads. By Thursday water was flowing and we realized one pipe was broken (right beside the Matango bar). The plumbers were still there so he removed the bad pipe (damaged upon connection) and water flows fine now.

Thursday we did some small collecting of stones and just relaxed. The rain prohibited us from doing much work for most of the afternoon so we spent the day in the drinking spot with an invitation from some newly arrived farmers. One bush man caught an iguana and we ate it with pepper soup and boiled plantains. It was pretty good.

Friday we traveled to Ekombe Bonji, a neighboring village much larger than Barombi. Many people were expecting us there, and we enjoyed very much. The Area Boys accompanied us there so it was a wild night. We arrived to some bush whiskey, at the first house in the village. Emmanual, a good friend and caretaker of the water supply system, carried us to the village. We passed through the bush path and it took about 2 hours. Ekombe Bonji lies on a main road just 6 miles from Kumba (very nice because we were able to take a motor bike back to town this morning in about 10 minutes=cost 500 Central African Francs, or $1.25 USD). We were greeted by some friends and then moved to a "big mans" house for another reception and WHITE STUFF !!!(you cant talk about the drink without giving a good shout in the Area Boys Accord). Soon after the Area Boys arrived. We made it so they came behind. Emmanuel had a program for the evening and did not want to sleep there. The Area BOys had another program for us to sleep and see the night life. Daddy Shaker, Da Game, Kobe, Bakala (pidgin for braids which the woman on the 10.000 franc bill has) Money, and Obonoya Nokoka aka Notorious B were the Area Boys who were able to make the occasion. Sexy stayed behind to accompany one of the other white girls here (Helen) back to town as he is deeply in love with her. We were lacking sound for some time but we made up for it with standard ruckus.

Once the boys arrived we ate some fufu and vegetable soup and then some chopped some bush meat (monkey this time). Some beers and then a quick stroll to see the new secondary school being built and the hospital built a few years back before a bath in the stream and second charge on the white stuff. We moved to the road to the one drinking spot open and arranged for some more charging and dancing. We ate some of the best snails I have ever eaten. with pepper and onions. One guy wants me to carry some back to the states and see how he can start a business exporting dried snails. I think I may actually try to carry some becauase they are fantastic. We made it back to Da Games Aunts house around 3am where Me Mark and Wise Dog shared one bed for a very quick sleep. Kobe slept in two plastic chairs next to the bed. The other guys piled in another bed in teh room beside. The house was a plank house, very common in villages of that size and very simple. No furniture besieds beds and benches. We were safe because we were with the Area Boys and nobody can mess with characters of their nature. As for mnorning time we waited aroud for a long time before eating some rice and fish and plums (not anything like those in the states, but bitter soft sort of vegetables). While waiting we ate beans and puff puff (fried bread) we bought on the street. Washed the meal down with some white stuff before heading to the road to catch a bike back to Kumba. Marko's brain was charged (result of taking alcohol) so we enjoyed some funny conversations in the morning time.

Tonight we have the farewell reception for the Immersion Students (weird to think its been a month since they arrived, but we have been busy non-stop). Dr. Amin is asking that we talk about the project some so its all good. The party is a big deal and high people are invited. IT is expected to last all night so I plan to get home soon for a nap. We have been working so hard the past two months, there is not any person here who could say any thing otherwise. The thing to understand is that its manual labor. Every day I carry something on my head through some tedious bush path or dig some ground with a pick axe and a terrible spade. Nothing here is easy, and as a result it is necessary that after hard work you must play hard. The fact of the matter is that the project could not have been done had we taken any other approach to achieving this goal. Completely integrating ourselves in the Barombi community has allowed us to work together to achieve our goal. We are all equals here and displaying that attitude in everyday life has allowed me especially to become one with the people. Anywhere I go I "feel free" and people here love that. They continue to say "You will not go back to America."
I laugh and agree saying that I will buy some land and build my own farm. Its nice to know that I can come back here at any time and have many places to sleep.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Interesting facts about my Second Home

As you my know, the village of Barombi Mbo lies opposite a natural lake with the same name. Friday after trekking around the lake, tired, hot, and exhausted, we went for a dip and it was very refreshing before the return to Kumba. Anyway, the lake is a crater caused by a volcanic eruption. Some facts about the lake:

Some scientists record the oldest species of fish to be found in the Barombi Mbo Lake.

The lake has no bottom, only some caverns that reach all the way to the sea.

When Mt. Cameroon erupts (as it did less than 10 years ago) the temperature of the lake rises so high all of the fish die. People say you can retrieve fish from the surface of the lake with pans.

The lake claims a few lives every year. Many people think that spirits and witchcraft are the cause.

The fish from the lake are very small. When you fry them, you can eat the entire fish, bones, spine, head, and eyes. We have made it customary to kiss the fish before we consume the head.

The Barombi people migrated from the Douala area when the Germans arrived to colonize. There were wars with the Bafaw people, the natives of the South West Province, Kumba area in particular. It is said that WHen Barombi man confronted the Bafaw at the lake, he was able to slap the water without moving it and removed burning fish (roasted fish) directly from the lake. After seeing this, the Bafaw people left the Barombi man to live on the lake.

Weekly Update

Back in K-Town for another weekend. First the weekly rundown and then to the fun stuff. Standard Procedure.

As for the project, work was slow last week. The plumbers were busy connecting pipes to the standtaps and finishing the concrete to make it look nice. The girls were busy working on their filters, training men to build them and having meetings with the women for usage and maintenance.

Monday we began to cover the pipeline enough to test by tuesday. After testing, the task of covering the remaining parts of the pipeline still remains but we have made some progress. Rain inhibited work for two of the days, leaving only small time in the morning to get work done. We made some formwork for the valve boxes and poured concrete for one valve box and cover for the two high points. After the heavy rains, much of the initial covering we had done on monday had washed away.My first reaction to seeing the empty pipeline after covering the day before was witchcraft was the cause. People here still believe very much in witchcraft and it seems to be a popular topic of discussion lately. Its interesting to see how much you begin to think like a villager when you live in the village.

Work remaining for this week is to pour concrete structures (forms are ready and waiting) and attach the lid of the collection chamber. We are standing firm on the notion that we cannot turn on the water until the trench is completely filled. That should get the community mobilized and ready to go. If all goes well, we can be finished by Wednesday (thats Friday in African time).

Gunshot and The Game traveled to a neighboring village and havent returned for over a week. We joke that they are in jail for not having their ID cards. I hope that is not the case though. Some people are angry as they feel they abandoned the community work that is not finished. But they are Area Boys, so what else can you expect. The journalist from UD arrived in the village thursday, delayed by heavy rains on wednesday, and he got to talk to some people and get a feel of the village life. He is writing a piece for the UD quarterly, basically trying to get money for the univ. but if it gets the word out there and brings in money for the ETHOS Program, I am all about it. Thursday night we had a crucial match and I think it ended in a draw, 3-3. Some of the guys take these football matches so seriously, but I cannot even do that.

We worked Friday morning, and then rushed back into town only to find that the appointment with the Senior Divisional Officer was cancelled. It was nice to have the afternoon open though, so we strolled through the market and ate some soya (small pieces of cow meat served with pepper and raw onions). Its one of my favorite things to get here on the roadside and I get it from one of the two best vendors in town. The meat has no fat and is better than many of the stuff these other guys sell. Compare filet mignon to Mc Donalds big mac.

saturday we had a match with the other university students from the Immersion group. Some other Cameroonians helped to make the squads even and everyone enjoyed themselves. The final score: 7-7. Dr. Amin was the referee. Its funny, I was taking a motor bike (also called Okatta) up to Fiango to visit the family I lived with the last two years and another okatta man behind called for me to say he saw me playing in the match theh previous day. Its interesting because he didnt call for my attention with the standard "white man" like he could anyone else, but called me "Barombi Man". I have no idea how he managed to find out that I was living in Barombi, buts its pretty cool to have natives referring to you as a man of the land, as opposed to white man.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Now for Enjoyment

Let me try to smash two weeks of immense enjoyment into words on this machine...

We told all those in the village that we would stay for the weekend and we did. We could not have known how much fun we would have had. The first few days were standard work days. Work, Football, Chop, SLeep. Then by Thursday we experienced the Barombi NIght Life. One family was having a family meeting and there were visitors from the Barombi Kang, a small suburb of Kumba, and another part of the Barombi clan. There are 11-13 villages of the Barombi people in all, I cant remember the actual number, but they vary across the South West Province. The people came, discussed, ate, and we somehow stubled on the party in time for the drinks and dancing. It was very fun and we ended the night a bit late. Over the weeks I am learning a lot about the history of the Barombi Mbo people and I will throw that down later.

The next day the girls came to the village and we celebrated one girl in our group Hayley (called Helen by all here, myself included) birthday. We made her a card and got some popcorn, whiskey, and wine from town earlier in the week. Then we moved "down" to Pa Phillips (chairman of the traditional council) house for a party. SOme visitors came becuase his son, Emmanual, had recently had a baby(christain name, Smith) and they were celebrating. Palm wine was flowing that night and there was much dancing.

Saturday was by far some of the most fun we had in the village. We took out the old motor boat(now without an engine) and went swimming in the lake. It was the first time I had gone (because of warnings from the professor) and I thought it was past time. Many of the Area Boys joined us and it was a great time. The weather couldnt have been better, not a cloud in the sky. Next time we are taking 10 litres of white stuff and the small radio I bought and [plan to make an afternoon out of it.

The next week we just worked hard. All day, everyday. The work becomes enjoyable when you can easily see the progress being made and when you work outside of the drinking spot. We started work far past the farms and inside the jungle, and now most of the work is right inside the village. Its not uncommon to be invited for whitestuff at any time of the day, and its a reason to have a break from the tedious task of digging. I find myself writing so much about white stuff, but I think its imperative to understand how much of the village culture comes from sitting around a 5 litre vat of palm wine and discussing. There are two types of white stuff: matango and matutu. Matango comes from the palm tree and is sweet. In order to tap the wine, they must cut down the tree and one tree can "leak" whitestuff for up to two weeks. Matutu comes from the raffia palm and is not as sweet, but twice as strong. They can tap the tree while it still stands. Matango usually comes in the morning and can be finished as early as noon. Matutu usually comes to "Idle Park", the town drinking spot, by 4pm and people are usually waiting to give their command for the evening Shacking. Wilfred promised to take me to the place where they harvest the refreshment when work is finished.

When there were two of us whites in the village for the weekend, we accepted many invitations to chop something. We ate fish from the lake, snails (called nyamanguro in pidgin, and a personal favorite), cocky corn and cocky beans. Cocky referns to the way its prepared: grated and spiced, then wrapped in plantain leaves and boiled for hours until it has a consistency similar to bread. Its fantastic. The snails are found in the farms when it rains heavily. We also ate shrimp from the lake that were massive and tasted far better than any Red Lobster.

Its hard to get people to work now because its time they enter their farms for clearing and spraying of the cocoa trees. They must clear all weeds and then spray the trees with insectside before the rains become too heavy. Cocoa is like gold and provides many people with their livelihood. Most of the "big men" in town have 4-5 farms and one guy said he produces up to 70 tons of cocoa in one season. He also has a house in Kumba could be considered a baller. He simply remains in the village because he is a farmer and thats where his farms are. So its interesting to see how not all things are as they seem, with respect to the fact that you cant judge a book by its cover.

Im at a lack of other thoughts and I need to get back to the house and eat something Im famished. My goal count is up to 7, far past the other white Mark who led me for a few football matches. As far as the Area Boys, not much new except that were still making noise and enjoying life. It will be a sad day when I have to leave this place.

Project Update after Long Time in the Jungle

Back from two weeks in the bush….I de enjoy myself plenty. I no wan go for weekend for Kumba. (some pidgin for you, and plenty more to come,,,). Things are moving great with the project and it was really nice to spend the weekend in the village. Mark and I stayed there with Julius aka “Wise Dog” and Karen aka “Mommy”. It allowed us to become even more a part of the Barombi community. Its interesting because when you live and work and play and do all things with people, you come to know them more than you would imagine, and I find myself feeling like a Barombi man.

So lets get down to business…Things are moving very well with the project past anything I could have imagined when planning for the project in the States. Dr. Amin, the history chair from UD and Cameroonian, came with the other Immersion students to see the work on Saturday. He was very impressed and the other students, 9 undergrads here in country for one month for a cultural immersion, were very interested in seeing what UD students are capable of.

The light at the end of the tunnel is shining brighter than ever. The past two weeks have been a mad dash for the finish line. 95% of the pipes are connected and we were forced to return to town this weekend to purchase 10 more PVC pipes to complete the line. While our original estimates were pretty darn good, we made a sacrifice to the lake of some pipes (fell from a canoe when one guy tried to carry too many pipes after taking too much white stuff). We spent much of the last two weeks digging. Mark and I were up every morning at 6am to begin the digging. Once people saw us they too joined in. It was imperative that the digging be complete to lay the pipes ASAP. Two plumbers work with us to lay the pipes, as the galvanized iron pipes need bending (between two trees) and diced. Its better because they move much faster then we could as amateurs.

Three concrete tap stands are complete. We poured the concrete last Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. The PVC pipes were connected to the iron pipe (to nearly complete the network) and high points and low points were installed (air release and cleaning valves). The work remaining includes: backfilling the trench (avoiding joints to test the line first, the completing), connecting the taps to the main line, finishing of the concrete structures (to make them look pretty), and constructing valve boxes and pillars to support the iron pipeline with concrete. We must also concentrate to sensitize to water management committee and train caretakers. The girls have been working on the filters and I really cant say much about them now because I have been concentrating all of my time on the pipeline. We work from early in the morning until mid afternoon, with a few small breaks for some palm wine or to get out of the hot sun. I will not travel with the Immersion students to spend most of my remaining time in the village. I want to be sure that every thing is correct when we leave this place.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Now for the fun stuff...

The last post was serious. Now for the good stuff...Most of it random thoughts

I made a point to come here today and write this stuff down, if not for anyone else but myself to remember the good times. But check it because the laughs never stop...

The dog at our house is in terrible condition. Its got scabies or something and most every visitor to the house is afraid of it and wont go near it. "Gunshot"(later found out his name to be Joseph) is determined to kill that dog...carry his gun to Kumba and shoot it, and carry it back to the village for Theodore to eat. Its not unheard of to eat dog, but because that dog is so mangey it leaves for some good laughs.

In the evenings you can hear all the sounds of the jungle around us. Its pretty loud, and every night one sound is distinct above the rest. When we asked the villagers what it was, they told us it was an "animal" also called "the one with three toes". Thats all we got as to what it is called, but Karen the girl who lives in the house with us is afraid of it. She wont go outside at night. Even the girls in the group as well. So in the nights its not common to hear one of the guys say,

"Pray you no go far, animal de chop you, nam nam nam nam nam."

Translation: "Do not go far from the house because the animal will eat you"

I had the chance to travel to "Wise Dog City" saturday and what a trip it was. Wise dog wanted to take me to his area, and to great his aunt and family. First we went to his place, one room in a plank house, basically like an apartment. He had posters of 2-Pac, G-Unit, and the like all over the walls and an old pair of Timberlands with Wise DOG, NYC, and dollar bill signs inked on them. Everyone called him "Wise Dog" as we passed through the area known as Danykash so he was not joking when he said that was his name. His aunt received me (across the road in a block house) and she was very gracious. We had some snaps (pictures) and took one bottle of Export "33" and some ground nuts. When I left for another "program" she was upset I was not going to stay around and eat her food and made me promise to return once more for lunch.

The "area boys" are the group of young men in the village. They can be called rascals as well, just young guys that get into mischief. They keep late hours, sometimes steal corn from others farms,and just like to clown around. Sexy provides us with "sound" as he is always singing. The Game chain smokes because he thinks its cool. Gunshot just talks about killing that dog. Nokoka (introduced earlier as another name I wont repeat) talks to me in pidgin and refuses to use English. Most of them come to the house in the night to play cards or drink some mimbo. The white stuff is great. I also tried afofo, African gin, which is made from distilled palm wine in the village. It was pretty smooth, but not nearly as nice as mayanga (white stuff).

We went to a place in Kumba called "Classy Burger" They have burgers and Kentucky Fried Chicken that is so good it tastes like the real thing. The owner spent some time in the states, and specialized in cajun cuisine. He seems to be doing well for himself with his take out business here in Fiango, a section of Kumba. He is called "Burga Burga" by locals simply because of the restaraunt name.

One of my friends here, Samuel, is called "School fees". When I asked him why he told me a story of when he was young in primary school his father gave him money for tuition and he never got his receipt. After asking for months, the father called the schoolmaster and demanded to know what had happened to the tuition money. When he found out his son never paid the money he and the schoolmaster embarassed Samuel in front of the entire class. Since he chopped (ate, embezelled, stole) the money for his school fees and everyone knew it, he got the nickname
"School Fees". He still keeps it to this day, probably 10 years after the fact, and he proved it when someone greeted him on the street and also with the name on the back of one of his t-shirts.

I gave some dresses (mostly t-shirts and some collared shirts) to my friend Alain's family. After 5 minutes of opening the parcel, every man in the house had a new shirt on. Know that my Kennedy Union Operations shirt is resting on the back of one young Cameroonian right now (hope I wasn't supposed to return that).

They prepared pepper soup at Alain's house with porcupine. The"bush meat" was nice, but the soup was so hot my eyes were tearing. I spilled some of it on the table and when it touched my arm, it swelled up and I swear I had some sort of first-degree burn from that pepper soup. Those African peppers are no joke.

Wow Internet is Slow: Week Rundown

Wow, I have been waiting for this page to load forever...I have managed to increase my level of patience simply because everything takes longer here, nothing is as easy as it seems, and its easier to relax and just let things go then to get upset because things don't go according to plans (which they never do). Now that I am done philosophising, let me get down to bizness.

Monday: We made it to the village (the two men in the group) early in the morning, but we had to wait to begin work because the keys were with our good friend Julius, aka "Wise Dog", and he was behind us in Kumba. We dismantled the formwork from the dam (catchment) while waiting and once he arrived, we perservered the work day until 6pm in order to accomplish an important task: casting the concrete collection chamber that sits after the catchment. This is nearly unheard of because most work days end by 2-3 pm depending on the amount of work. It was imperative that we cast the collection chamber so that work could progress as the week went on.

After work, no football because it was nearly dark when we returned to the house. We had our baths and then dinner and then sponsored a party for all those in the village that have been working with us. We carried 6 crates of beer across the lake, some cheap wine that tastes like juice 5 gal jug, and bought some white stuff (palm wine) from one of the villagers. We also had ground nuts (African peanuts) and puff corn (popcorn). Elvis was the DJ and the party lasted until midnight. Everyone had a nice time.

Tuesday: Rain de fall hard. Rain de fall plenty. No work in fact. We spend most of the day in the house playing cards, a game called "check" that is similar to UNO with regular cards, and just relaxed. Football in the afternoon, and after that took some white stuff at the local pub (a small room in front of one guys house where people congregate around vats of palm wine at any hour of the day.

Wednesday: The plumbers got to work by cutting and dicing the galvanized iron pipes, attaching valves and the inlet to the pipe line at the collection chamber. Digging continued in full force as the chairman of the traditional council returned and decreeed that any man who did not dig was required to pay 24 bottles of beer (2 crates) to the traditional council and he was planning on traveling to the Senior Divisional Officer of the Meme Division in Kumba to turn in names and make if official. Football in the afternoon, got me two goals and one of the guys said it was "christmas" for me. We played through the rain and after we went "down" to drink some white stuff and catch some fun. Great dinner of Ndole (probably my best African dish) and sleep.

Thursday: Work progressed again at an alarming rate!!! Digging continued and the laying of galvanized iron pipes went forth. It is a difficult task because of the terrain, but its moving. We built the forms for the tap stands that will be located in the village (3 of them). To do this, we carried planks from the catchment to the village. I carried one on my head, 12" x 1" planks 20 ft. long. Probably more difficult that the bag of sand.

Friday: Again, digging and laying of pipes. I dug my own section of the trench on Friday. 4 meter section, just like every other man in the village, and I have the blisters to prove it. The way I see it, people will be talking about this project for many years to come, as well as the people who orchestrated it. I dont want them saying that we forced them to do all the manual labor, but that we contributed just as every other man to realize our common goal.

Weekend: Shacking and sleeping and football.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Week 2 in the village

Life is so good in the village I almost did not want to return to Kumba for the weekend. I am coming back next weekend because it is a big weekend around here as most of the secondary and highschools are finished with exams so every young person will be out. Also there is some kind of competitions going on at Soba Park ((Shacking Home)) on Friday and Saturday there is a football match for that charity organization i joined (CLICKS) and then in the evening one hip-hop artist is releasing his album and he asked me to come to check it out. I met him at the club Olabi Maze last weekend and thats another story in itself.

Before I get into the village, one story of Soba Park last weekend...I was getting a bit annoyed with some of the songs the DJ was playing (American joints) and when he played a Cher song, I was determined to do something about it. So I requested Usher and Lil John "Yeah". The place went insane. Mass people started break dancing in a large circle. It was extremely impressive some of the moves these kats had and it was pretty wild. After that we moved to the nightclub, I was a guest of some of the other whites in town here with a human rights org. Free entrance to the club and free whiskey proved to be a pretty good time. My friend Capone was with me and we ended up moving back to the house around 4am.

OK now back to the village....The second week proved to be more fun than the first. Work was a bit more difficult and my friend Mark and I worked pretty hard. Thursday we did out part of the community work and carried around 50 lbs of sand on our heads over 1 mile. It was excrutiatingly painful but I endured. No joke, I wanted to drop after moving from lakeside to the school house, and there was still nearly a mile left to trek through the bush....it was raining and we were crossing over again and again the trench we had dug, and uphill for a good section of the trek. It was killer. But in the end I felt like a badass, and I feel even more like a Cameroonian after doing it.

Got two goals in the football match on Tuesday night!! It was great because I had been on a 6 game dry streak in the village after many misses and a lot of talk. My team still managed to lose after two defensive breakdowns in the last 3 minutes of the match.

The girl who lives with us in the village can cook like a maniac. Ive been eating like a king I tell you. One morning for breakfast we had potatoe omlettes, another we had coconut pancakes. She made plantain and potato chips for snacks in the after noons. For dinner, every night we have the best African cuisine, from fufu and arrow, to garrey and ndole, which are traditional meals of starche and vegetables.

We were invited down to Pa Georges places on Wednesday night for some white stuff. He turned on his generator and we listened to music and drank the palm wine for a good hour. Three glasses and ya man had a decent buzz. That stuff is powerful and one must take care when drinking it. Its very nice though, and the village seems to have a steady supply of it. Its funny though, because every morning they have some and by evening its finished for the day.

The "Area boys" of the village are the guys who keep late hours in the nights and were integral in the pouring or the concrete dam. The main dudes in the crew are Gunshot, The Game, and Sexy, and we've been having some fun times working in the day, footballing, and then relaxing afterwards. To pass the time and make work go faster, we sing one song in particular "Do Me" by P-Square, some Nigerians. You-tube it because the song is sweet. The music here is some of the best and the dancing compliments it very well. Yesterday we went to a 40th anniversary in town and after a long church service, waiting forever to eat, we enjoyed plenty of dancing and then some ladies you could find at "grab-a-granny" night at Tony and Cleo's gave me a run for my money on the dance floor. By the time it was finished, they said I was a white African. Thats cuz I got killer moves...

I have been working on my pidgin and its getting better and better. Now I am even having small conversations and am struggling to hear some of the guys in the village as they talk very fast, but I will only get better.

Too much more to tell, but times short. "stay blessed"

Project Update (Week Two)

Back in K-Town (Kumba) for another weekend, and limited time to write, with so many things to write...Here goes..

The project is moving very well. Most of the week was spent continuing to excavate for the dam/catchment and moving more sand, concrete, and gravel from the lakeside to the catchment site. On friday we poured the entire concrete dam, using over two cubic meters of concrete (14 bags of cement). All of the concrete was mixed by hand with shovels and the formwork was made from timber cut in the jungle a kilometer away and the posts were made of small trees. We cut the forms with machetes because the wood was still very wet and the saws we bought from the hard ware store just didn't cut it. Digging on the trench for the pipeline was suspended for the week because community work was needed for transporting materials and pouring the concrete (bucket brigade).

Work will continue Monday as digging will continue and we will finish concrete work at the catchment site with construction of the collection chamber. We are working with two plumbers to help join the iron pipes, so that work will begin by wednesday and then its a straight shoot until we reach the village. The terrain provides only 2 high and low points, which makes constructing the pipeline fairly easy. We will see.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Life in the Village (Part II)

Naturally this sections will have mand amendments, but theres some things needed to be said.

The villagers:

We greet all those that pass in the mornings and afternoons with "Good MorningO" and "Good AfternoonO" just the pidgin way of greetings. Our compound is at the end of the village, near the bush, so we are a bit isolated from the rest of the village. There are two parts to the village: up and down. We live up. The young men in the village are clowns ( I mean that in no offensive way and I use that term with the utmost affection) and we have been having some good times with them. Here are some of the guys we work with and also play football in the afternoons: Francis, Theodore, Franklin, Gunshot, Sexy, The Game, Mother F*cker, and Liberty. You can see possibly how their nicknames might reflect their demeanor. Many of the enjoy American hip hop and idolize the gangster persona they see on television. Most of them are farmers and have finished only primary school, a few are in school now in Kumba. Communiation is somewhat difficult, but managings with thumbs up, raised eyebrows, smiles, and hand shakes for the moment. I am slowly stringing together sentences of pidgin, and have down many phrases.

I dont see much of the women but the children come to the house in the evenings to play with the girls in the group. Usually hopscoth, jump rope, some game similar to jacks with rocks, and writing as well. Thats during the time we go for sport (ball) and then baths and supper to hit the sheets early. The midgits (real small flies that bite) disturb more than mosquitos, but I will take some discomfort over malaria any day.

The chairman of the water committee's brother invited us to him home Thursday night for "movie night'. We watched Thunderball, and oldschool Bond movie. After the first disc, the generator was finished and we moved to the house to sleep. Depending on money, the generator gives light once or twice a week. We have one, but I dont even like to use it and fuel is very expensive.

The rain is falling very hard now which restricts nearly all movement in town. We had mostly dry weather last week, which was very fortunate as the rainy season is fast approaching and work would ideally be finished before the rains fall hard. Rain can paralize the continent in many regions due to unpaved roads and a life of trekking as means for mobilization.

Life in the Village

This is where it gets difficult to explain but Ill give it a try...

Finally last Monday I trekked to the village with no intentions of returning to Kumba until the end of the week. Members had been waiting for us as there was a reception planned to welcome us and commence work. We arrived in the village by 4 and the ceremony began. A generator provided electricity for some music and a microphone. As we entered the village, the man with the mic gave a play-by-play as we "entered the village, greeted the chief, moved to the house, returned to the reception, and took our seats". Everyone from the traditional council and water management committee was introduced and then a welcome from the chief, response from me, and then some food and drinks after. We drank some bottles of beer and then some "white stuff" aka palm wine. The local specialty of the village keeps some members inside one residence in the mornings to take the fresh juice after returning from farms or preparing to go.

The villagers are fishers and farmers for the most part. Barombi fish (talapia) and giant shrimp come from the lake and are tasty. The farmers harvest cocoa, plantains, bananas, palms (for oil, and wine when the tree is finished) and timber. Life is interesting when the sun goes down at 7pm and there are no lights to attract the bugs and keep one awake. Early to bed means early to rise and I wake up every day at 6am, to sleep usually by 10pm. We bath using stream water (buckets) in a brand new outhouse constructed behind the two-room concrete school house we reside in. The outhouse is divided into three parts, has two holes necessary for taking care of business and one side to wash the body to feel fresh. Its funny every time I go for my bath and I shout at using the cold stream water, our friend Julius from Kumba asks,

"Is there a lion in there?"

Kills me every time. Mornings are used to prepare breakfast and some small reading. There is one girl from Kumba as well who stays in the village with us. She helps with most of the cooking because it is no easy task to prepare any meal here in Africa. I have been eating rice, spaghetti, eggs, greens, fish, plantains, potatoes, yams, and fruit: papaya, pineapple, oranges, mangos, bananas, avacados, but have not yet tasted my best fruit (called Monkey Kola because the monkeys love it so much).

Works starts around 9am as most of the villagers have returned from fishing and the farms. It is necessary to work with their own schedules as they provide all of the manual labor. We have been working all week on two objectives: digging for the catchment and tracing and digging the pipeline. The stream has been dammed and nearly half the catchment is excavated. As for the pipeline digging has gone for two days and around 200 meters have been dug (60mm deep and 40mm wide) for the PVC pipes. There is around 800 meters that will need to be dug so we are moving along quite well. Next week we plan to pour the concrete catchment and begin laying the galvanized iron pipe and hopefully PVC the following week. We are disagreeing with the plumbers on the price for the work, but they will still come to the village tomorrow and begin work as the engineer can sort that one out.

Welcome Home Party

Last Sunday after the CLICKS meeting we attended a party sponsored by a new member. The occasion was for two reasons: the new member was celebrating his leaving Cameroon for America (Boston) to work in some service organization and his brother had just returned to Cameroon from Romania. He is a professional footballer there and his team just moved into the first division. The party was fairly standard. We arrived and they posted chairs for us to sit along the wall. Then we waited for someone to bring a crate of bottles and had some drinks. Here you buy cigarettes at roadside stands in singles. One guy made mad money by carrying a bag with cigs and plastic satchels of whiskey to sell to those that were drinking and smoking. A wise decision no doubt because I am sure he made some good money.

Also at the party was a friend, Clara. She is a very interesting person, with her parents based in Yaounde, the capital city, she is a personality for some television network and her boyfriend/fiance is a Nigerian film director. Her career has allowed her to interview some interesting peeople from Cameroon and next month she is interviewing Samuel Eto'o and Drogba (two widely known professional footballers from Cameroon and Ivory Coast respectively).

The party was pretty fun with some dancing and then calling it quits around midnight (no club that night because of work the next day...I gotta keep it professional).

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Shacking Home

First, the old Soba Park bar, situated on Buea Road (which could be compared to the Southside in Pittsburgh or Temple Bar in Dublin), is now called Shacking Home. To "shack" means to drink mimbo (alcohol). The place is under new management and is dope. The front is an open porch area and in the back is a dance floor with a DJ every weekend (maybe every night). Naturally we made friends with the DJ after being there for a few minutes and then mayhem erupted. Next thing is mass dancing and here the DJ gives talks over the music (in French) because a lot of the club bangers are from the Ivory COast and that is francophone territory. So once we hit the dance floor, all i could hear was every song dedicated to "my American friend, Mr. Justin" and then some French...At first it was clownin but after a while it got a bit old...still a good time no doubt. Picking up some pretty killer dance moves ((REGAN (S) get ready for a dance off when i get back)).

Sunday, June 1, 2008

The real deal: Project Update

So I've trekked to the village three times since I have been here and to the lake side, many times. It is very trecherous and many of the vehicles we hire to transport materials say they will never return to the lake side.

Its been a bit over two weeks in country and things are moving fine. The community has been very serious and adament about moving materials and starting this project. We visited the site Friday (all of the students, the engineer in Kumba, a plumber needed for laying the pipeline, and a mason/carperter). Sand, gravel, 20 bags of cement, and all of the pipes are now resting in the village!! This is a very important as it was not an easy task and took nearly 2 weeks to accomplish. The catchment site has been cleared and we have traced the pipeline.

We are returning to the village on Monday for a traditional welcome and to officially begin the project (this should be a big party and very interesting). All of the girls here have cameras so I am sure the entire project will be well documented.

You may be interested to know that all of the materials were transported by canoe across the lake and we nearly lossed some of the PVC pipes when one canoe tipped. Men from the village should have dived to recover them today as it is very important we have all of them.

I brought a bunch of soccer shoes and a ball that I will slowly get to the guys in the village. We have already played one match after the first days work (aside from the matches I have played in Kumba) and the Barombi village pitch is quite nice.

We just received another grant that we applied for so thats good because we thought money might run out.

I gotta run to another sunday evening meeting (posted some info about this once before). Time to willlld out!!!

One interesting car ride

So its pretty difficult to summarize what went down over the past week, but I will try; only to pay attention to details that matter and paint a picture of life in a West African country.

The week was fairly slow as we were in a lull waiting for the pipes we ordered from Douala to arrive in Kumba, receiving the other four members of the group from UD, and just chillin out before we post up in the village school house for week-long stints during construction.

Tuesday was an interesting day. We are working with the divisional director of rural engineering for the Meme Division (a section of the South West provice where Kumba lies). He was asked to travel to Mbombe, a small village less than an hour from Kumba to check out a water system and town meeting hall the community has initiated. The village is nearly 3,000 people and organized along the road between Douala (major shipping port and commercial center) and Kumba. No running water tho. So he invited me to come and check the place.

We arrived in the car park at around 9am after getting to the hardware store at 7am to purchase and transport cement to the lake side (for the villagers to carry across the lake by canoe-hollowed out tree trunks). That is another story in itself, the fact that we had to pick up the cement at a different location and the seller would not issue a receipt becuase cement is scarce and we purchased each bag at 1.000 cfa (Central African Franc) over the gov't mandated maximum price... Anyways. We arrived at the car park to purchase a ride in a car to Mbombe. While waiting we ate at a small "off license" where I ate an egg, spaghetti, onion, green, and tomato omlette with bread. ((It was bomb, seasoned to perfection))

The I saw the car we were traveling in. 1980-something Toyota corolla hatchback. The odometer had stopped at 278,490 kilometers and nothing on the dash worked. We were ten inside this tiny car, four adults in the back (two babies riding on their mothers laps) and four in the front, the driver sharing his seat with a paying customer. The trunk was filled with goods and atop the car were six plastic oil-drum-size containers attached with rubber twine that we stopped several times because the driver did not properlly attach them. Needless to say, as many people here will tell you, "That's Africa."

We made is to the village in less than an hour and were left to meet with several committees before seeing the community hall and catchment site for the water system. After drinking 2 bottles of warm Mutzig (common courtesy to invite guests to partake in drinking 'mimbo'). We were set to return to Kumba. How would we get back? Sit beside the road and wait for a bus/transport that was not full and could carry us home. Rain soon fell and after waiting for nearly an hour, it so happened that the rented van that was picking up the other students from the airport in Douala passed and picked us up. The immediately noticed my white self standing beside the road and picked us up, giving us a free ride back home. Luck.

Monday, May 26, 2008

More Project Info and Night Club

The project is as follows: a simple gravity-flow water supply system. Water is collected from a stream 200ft above the village less than a mile a way and will be piped in galvanized iron and PVC pipes to three tapstands in the village. The village provides all of the manual labor, and all members of the group from UD raised over $15,000 last year to provide for construction costs. All materials are purchased locally and we are working with an engineer from Kumba to make sure no stone in unturned (literally).

Update...

yea things are moving smoothly here with respect to the project. i am
just back from the village where we went to discuss with the water
committee the tasks for the first week. includes transportation of
sand and gravel and clearing of the catchment area. the village is on
a lake, so that makes it very difficult to transport materials.
anyway, i am spending the next few days in the city just taking care
of some things like getting money here and ordering some more
materials. The other members of the group are coming in to town
wednesday and we will brief them and by friday the pipes should be at
the lakeside. we will accompany them to the village and construction
should start by monday. at that time ill be in the village all week
long, coming to Kumba on the weekends (where you could expect an
post).

dont know if i told you we went to the club on saturday night and it
was clownin....didnt get in until after 4am and defiantely didnt make
it to church (that was my moms request, not my own). just danced and
had a pretty good time. there are mirrors all around the dance floor
and people here love to look at themselves dance. naturally, i
followed suit. last night i went to a meeting with one of my friends
here its for this org that is trying to do some good things here in
kumba. it basically seems to be an excuse to party and all the members
are from well off families that sponser a few kids thru school and
party down every sunday night after their meeting..ate some snails (just one of my favorites from the cuisine here) and drank some cheap red wine (tasted like juice) and a couple bottles of my favorite beer, Mutzig.

I think I'll join the organization.

Listening to some great music from the Ivory Coast called cope de kale (or something like that) and also Cameroonian markosa. Last night I heard good life by Kanye and had to wild out. and a few other joints you would find funny, such as "i wanna make love in this club' or whatever that song is called.

just enjoying the heat (sweating every minute) and riding the okatta (motor bike taxis) all around town which is pretty fun i must say.

Week One Review

24 May 2008

Yes it has been one week since I have been in Cameroon. AH! I am
finding the place as I left it and still am loving every minute of it.
The past few days have been very busy and it is 9pm that I am having
the change to make it to the internet to give some information. We
went to the village on thursday and re-traced the pipeline. It took
two days so we stayed in the school house thursday night and returned
to Kumba friday. We had an initial meeting with the chief, elders,
some women, and members of the water management committee. I spoke
excellent pidgin in they got my message and no one had to translate
anything (I was pretty happy with that).

We made our way back to Kumba and have been working to sort out
details with the engineer as far as purchasing pipes, sand, and
gravel. Because the village is on the opposite side of Barombi Lake,
this presents a problem as for the transportation of materials. We are
working to figure out these details. I played football in the village
(they have a great pitch) and I am excited to fit some of the guys
with the shoes I have brought. I am slowly dispersing them out to
friends and they are very grateful.

Working on the project has left me very busy with little time for
meeting with friends (Its great that I can move about town and see
people I have known from years past as if I am in my own place like
Wheeling or UD). Again the food is great and I am loving the beer.
Tonight we are giong to the club OLABI MAZE (Its funny because the
owner was on my soccer team in Dayton and I am only mad that I did not
get some free passes from him HA!).

I think thats all. Tomorrow I will go to the 630 am Catholic mass with
Mother and Liz (the other white here with me) and then play football
and REST!!!!!

And take my malaria pills...I cannot even describe how great it feels
to be back here...its as though I never left and I am having more fun
than any previous year....

First Email Home

To make this easier Ill copy the first email I sent to the fam telling them I made it safely.

21 May 2008

Ah there is so much to tell you. I guess I will just start that I am here and safe. All is very well. My bags did not arrive until the day after me. We arrived in Douala on Saturday and then moved to Kumba on Sunday. I took a public transport (bus) to Douala on Monday with my friend Derick to pick my luggage on Monday. It was very interesting and a long day. The road from Douala to Kumba has been graded and they are preparing to pave it. Its great because the travel time is much less then the previous years. The first year I was here it took over 5 hours to travel to Douala. Now it takes only 3. You can imagine the difference. Yesterday was the National Holiday in Cameroon. There was a very long parade and we received invitations to sit in the grandstand and watch it all. It was also my friend Derick's birthday. His ID says he is 24 but I dont know if that is actually accurate.We had drinks and just a great time. I exercised my pidgin and was told by numerous people that I am a "true Cameroonian" . Something I could agree with. We have our meeting with the engineer today to discuss the project and make arrangements for our program and prepare orders for materials.

Its great to be back and I am seeing many good friends and my pidgin is getting much better. I am sure that by the time I leave here I will be talking fine. I got a killer haircut complete with a carving on the side. Pictures will tell more. The family we are staying with are wonderful. Our father is a doctor who has studied in India, Scotland, and China. He is a very smart man and knows a lot. It is different here because we have eaten every meal with them, The food has been out of this world too, even better than anything last year. I de chop fine-o. (some pidgin for you)

Thats all I guess. I have really just been enjoying my self too much and soon I must get serious and begin this project (like in one hours time).

Introduction

Ayyy Greetings from the Motherland...

I created this blog to tell the stories as they go down and avoid long email lists and the like.

Theres much to tell but I'll keep it short. This is my third time in Cameroon, sponsored by an engineering program (ETHOS) at the University of Dayton. Cameroon is a country on the west coast of Africa. I stay in one of the two anglophone provinces, the other eight are francophone. The people here talk pidgin however, and that makes things interesting to say the least Theres way to much to tell of the history and current situations in Cameroon, so if you are interested google it.

The first two years I spent assessing the situations here and learning of opportunities for future civil engineering students to work here. I also spent a great deal of time getting to know the people and experienceing anything I could get the chance to do, just as any other Cameroonian would do. That included traveling to rural villages, playing football (soccer) daily, drinking great beer (brewed in country) and visiting the night club (thats a whole other story). This year, I am working (alongside some other students) to constructe a water supply system for a village outside the city where I stay, Kumba.

So this blog will serve as a template for project news as well as document some of my antics around town because after three years, as you can imagine, I am fairly well known as the "white man" who just keeps coming back.